Review: Mountain Hardwear Transition Jacket

My closet floweth over with wind shells, soft shells, hard shells, ultralight shells, burly shells, and shells that defy classification. My first mountaineering shells in the early 70s were a wind and water resistant 60/40 parka and a waterproof cagoule. Then along came the miracle GoreTex fabric in my Early Winters parka that was supposed to replace the others. It did for a while but the concept of the one-shell-for-everything never panned out in the real world.

Now, decades later, I have found the one-shell-that-does-damn-near-everything. I've used the Mountain Hardwear Transition Jacket with great success for highly aerobic activities (road and mountain biking, skate skiing, running), interval activities (climbing, lift-served skiing, whitewater rafting, hiking), and inactivities (hanging around camp, around town, outdoor cafes). The only thing this shell doesn't excel at is keeping me dry in a heavy rainstorm but it isn't intended for that and it does great in light rain.

The Transition Jacket uses the latest generation of the Gore Windstopper SoftShell (formerly called Next2Skin). I've tried most of the previous versions of this fabric and was only mildly impressed; some were heavy, others uncomfortable. The interior laminate of this shell is brushed polyester, which is very soft and helps transfer moisture. The outer laminate is a jersey knit that disperses moisture for fast drying. The total fabric package is just warm enough for chilly days without being too thick for working hard.

If you are familiar with the Marmot DriClime Windshirt, a true classic piece of outdoor wear, this Transition Jacket is the modern replacement. Like many of you, I wore my DriClime for almost everything but now it hangs sullenly while the Transition is my go-to shell due to superior comfort.

The trim fit of the Transition keeps it from flapping in high winds and allows you to throw a fleece or hard shell over it when conditions warrant. The athletic cut gives plenty of arm reach when climbing and biking and allows excellent freedom of movement that is aided by the 3-way stretch of the body fabric and even greater stretch of the side panels. Seams are taped to minimize any chaffing and help reduce water leaks in light rain.

Amenities of the Transition Jacket include a nice hood that fits under helmets and lays unobtrusively when unused, reflective patches, and Lycra cuffs with thumb loops. The interior zippered chest pocket and exterior zippered rear pocket both have holes for earphones, plus there is an elastic routing loop to keep the cable in place. Total weight for a men's large is 15.0 ounces.

The slight downsides include limited abrasion resistance of the outer jersey knit (it tends to pick) so this isn't a great choice for bushwhacking but that is a necessary tradeoff. The only detail missing is the ability to use the rear pocket as a stuff sack.

With a suggested retail of $150, it does cost more than a DriClime ($85). But this is a shell that I wear so often now that it seems like a great value.

Review: PAST Balance Trainer

A good sense of balance is vitally important for most outdoor activities but especially things like climbing and hiking through boulder fields. One of the major focuses of functional training is combining multi-plane resistance exercises with balance challenges. These routines require the use of less resistance but offset this decrease by invoking more stabilizing muscles, including those of the core, and integrating the whole body.

There are numerous training aids for balance such as wobble boards, BOSU trainers, and slacklines. While working on the new edition of my training book, I've tried a wide assortment of these products. Among the best that I've found are the PAST balance boards.

Sold as a pair, these are unique compared to standard wobble boards and bongo boards because there is one for each foot. While a wobble board uses one half of a sphere attached to the bottom, the PASTs have a central rubber column. The difference is that you can't really balance on a wobble board but you can with the PAST, with practice. Also you start out of balance with a wobble or bongo board and must try to bring it to balance while you step onto the PASTs in a position of balance and work to maintain that position. Since the feet are independent and the platforms can rotate, you can perform a number of twisting motions not possible on other balance products.

The other unique aspect of the PAST system is that you can flip the platforms upside down and attach two handles for pushups. If you've seen the obnoxious commercials for the Perfect Pushup gizmo, this is basically the same thing only better. The wide, padded handles rotate as you perform the pushups to allow a natural hand position at all times. What is better is that you can make the grips unstable to increase the challenge or you can turn a collar to make them stable like with the Perfect Pushup. The unstable PAST pushups are nearly as good as performing pushups with Elite Rings and you don't have to worry about installation.

The PAST system also comes with elastic cords that attach to the platform for doing easy resistance exercises. This sounds good in theory but I found them to be essentially useless for any sort of workout. Also included is a cheap nylon gym bag and two rug adaptors. And you can view a selection of training videos on the web site (no DVD included).

All in all, I find the PAST system to be a superior balance training product to most of the alternatives. However, I have two major gripes: comfort and price. The platforms are very uncomfortable in bare feet, which discourages use around the house (pain is never a good enticement for training of any type). A smooth deck would be a huge improvement. The system sells for $120 (plus shipping), which seems pretty steep; if they sold for $80 (or $60 without handles) a lot more people would be interested.

Review: Arc'teryx Dually Belay Jacket

After a particularly frigid climbing trip to Indian Creek over Thanksgiving (the infamous frozen sushi fest), my wife decided that my much beloved Feathered Friends Volant Jacket was going to be hers. Fortunately for me, the new Dually Belay jacket from Arc'teryx arrived soon thereafter.

Over the years, I've tried quite a few synthetic parkas from a number of manufacturers. The appeal was being able to toss it over wet clothing when belaying on ice climbs. But I always ended up going back to down-filled jackets with a WP/B shell because of their warmth, compactness, and longevity. Until now, it just hasn't been possible to get that combination from any of the synthetics in a well-designed parka.

The Dually Belay jacket features a proprietary synthetic insulation that has a DWR coating on each fiber. Arc'teryx calls it ThermaTek, which is a hollow-core, continuous filament insulation--essentially Polarguard Delta with an extra water repellant treatment--that is glued to a 30 denier high-tenacity ripstop nylon face fabric. 

If this insulation sounds familiar it's because Wiggy's has been using pretty much the same technology since 1986. Jerry Wigutow is a maverick in the outdoor industry who has been railing against the marketing hype of the synthetic sleeping bag companies for ages. While Wiggy sometimes sounds like a crackpot, there is also a lot of truth to his rants particularly what he says about laminating insulations. I'm not a fan of his product because the design and detailing is lacking (I've been spoiled by high-end gear for too long to compromise on the little things) and they tend to be heavy (a 3.5 pound sleeping bag does not deserve to be called Ultra Light).

A few years ago, Mountain Hardwear was the first mainstream outdoor company to knock-off Wiggy's insulation concept with their Lamina sleeping bags, which proved less than successful so they had to redesign. Arc'teryx also made an attempt by laminating Primaloft but the performance left a lot to be desired and it had a stiff hand. Now Arc'teryx is back with ThermaTech and it appears they've got it mostly right this time. 

I've used the Dually Belay Jacket most of the winter and it is quite simply superb. The jacket maintains its loft and fluffs quickly after unstuffing so it provides a lot of warmth. Amazingly, at 22.2 ounces (men's large) it is 1.1 ounces lighter than the Volant down jacket and it fits into the same stuff sack. Let me repeat, the Dually is lighter and stuffs to the same size as a high-end down jacket of equal warmth.

Other niceties include a good high collar with wind seal in the neck, Lycra wrist seals, two zippered handwarmer pockets, and two large internal mesh pockets. The cut is trim yet athletic to allow good freedom of movement. The face fabric, which is the same both inside and outside the jacket, is very wind resistant and acceptably durable.

That's the good news, the bad news is breathability of the jacket is not as good as the down parka. Not a deal breaker though since this is more for standing around than working in the cold. The material doesn't have the soft hand and drape of down either but it's adequate. One design oversight is the lack of a pocket that doubles as a stuff sack (should be a no-brainer). And one very irritating design error is unprotected top of the zipper that chaffs at your chin when zipped closed (somebody smack that production manager).

But the really bad news is the cost. The Feathered Friends Volant Jacket with eVent outer shell (arguably the best down jacket on the market) retails for $330 and an optional detachable hood costs $55. The Arc'teryx Dually Belay Jacket has a suggested retail of an astounding $425 or the Belay Parka, which is the same except it adds a non-detachable hood, is $475. Considering this synthetic jacket requires a lot less labor to assemble (fewer seams) and the premise for the technology is twenty years old, it's hard to see how they can justify the asking price.

No doubt, if you need the wet weather performance (or if you get pro deals), the price may not be a factor.  Aside from the cost, the Dually truly is an exceptional piece of kit, no other synthetic jacket is even close, despite a few minor design issues. 

Available from Backcountry.com

Review: Elite Rings

Climbers can certainly learn a thing or two from gymnasts when it comes to training. After all, theirs is also a sport where a high strength-to-weight ratio is important. One of the best additions that any outdoor athlete can make for their home gym is a pair of gymnastic rings. These simple tools are remarkably effective for developing muscles of the upper body and core.

While gymnastic rings may conjure up images of uber-athletes in the Olympics doing super-human feats like the Iron Cross, they are also valuable for us mere mortals. Because they can move freely, rings are excellent for performing push-ups to work the chest and triceps as well as the small stabilizer muscles of the shoulder. Similarly, they work better for pull-ups than a fixed bar or hangboard; you can even stagger them in height for extra challenge. Instead of crunches and ab rollers, you can use rings to work the abdominals and obliques by doing curl-ups and planks.

The rings used by gymnasts, however, are expensive ($350 per pair) because of the high stresses they must endure. Fortunately, Elite Rings are an affordable alternative ($80 shipped) that are designed for fitness training. The rings are constructed of molded plastic, reinforced with ribs so they don't flex. They have just enough texture to offer a good grip without chewing your hands up. One-inch flat webbing easily adjusts in length with heavy-duty Ancra cam buckles. Unlike the knock-off Xtreme Rings (which already lose points for the name), the Elites have a slot that the webbing threads through to stabilize the rings; you don't have to use it but I found it helpful.

These rings are essentially perfect right out of the box--all you need is two sturdy anchor points in the ceiling about 18-inches apart. To hang them, I drilled two holes through a ceiling beam and installed eye bolts. Rather than threading the webbing through the bolts, I just use two carabiners so I can quickly take the rings down.

The Elite Rings come with printed training guide that shows the basic exercises. But you might consider getting the DVD ($20 extra), which shows a progression of exercises with proper technique and gives tips on how to change resistance. It also includes some extra footage of a professional gymnast making us all feel like weaklings. Good stuff.

Review: CAMP Pulse ski mountaineering helmet

I was getting ready to write a scathing review of the CAMP Pulse helmet after a disappointing experience. This is one of the only helmets on the market (Dynafit also makes one) that passes the CE standards for both skiing (rather weak) and climbing (quite demanding). The concept is brilliant for ski mountaineers, alpinists, and ice climbers. But I thought I'd found a major flaw.

We were up at Loveland ski resort recently and the wind was howling. Not only were my ears freezing but the ear flaps actually channeled wind in so that hearing was very difficult. It may not seem like a big deal but it truly can be during a storm. I tried readjusting the straps at lunch to no avail. This was particularly dismaying because Lou Dawson had given this helmet a positive review at Wildsnow.com; we don't always agree but this appeared to be a glaring oversight.

This morning, I discovered the problem...the earflaps were put on the wrong side. That’s how the helmet was shipped to me. But it’s an easy mistake since they are not marked left and right and the difference is subtle to the eye. Once I disassembled the flaps and put them on properly, the problem was solved. Now I've marked them to prevent the error after I remove the Winter Kit for summer skiing.

My bigger issues are matters of fit so these may or may not affect you. First, the sizing runs small compared to many other helmets. The size 2 just barely fits a large head; there’s no way it will fit anyone who takes extra large. They really need a size 3 as well.

Second, due to the very oval shape, I experienced significant pressure on the upper rear “corners” of my skull which I don’t get from other helmets (including the CAMP StarLight and Petzl climbing helmets and several different Giro bike and ski helmets). This pain isn't noticeable right away but it gets almost unbearable after a couple hours and there doesn't appear to be any easy modification possible.

Minor nits: The adjustable front vents can rotate slightly so they don’t quite align with the holes and the handle could use more texture so it's easier to operate while wearing gloves. The goggle clip is less than ideal when using a headlamp with a battery pack on the back.

As with many helmets, the side straps are difficult to adjust and the instructions are poorly written. Fitting helmets should be simpler so people will do it. Currently, few stores take the time to help customers get a proper fit and few will do anything more than tighten a chin strap. This means the helmet has a good chance of not working when it's actually needed due to improper position.

Still, the Pulse is a very nice helmet. Having been spoiled by ski helmets with adjustable vents (Giro and Smith), I will never go back to a helmet that lacks them. This is an invaluable feature for temperature control on the fly. In addition to the sliding front closures, the CAMP Pulse has removable plugs for the rear vents, which is an acceptable compromise to reduce weight.

The total weight of the Size 2 with the Winter Kit is 14.0 ounces. For comparison, a Giro Fuse is 13.7 ounces and a Giro Omen is 21.2 ounces--and neither can pass the climbing tests for energy absorption or penetration of a falling rock. The CAMP StarLight is 10.3 ounces but lacks the vents and earflaps for skiing.

Overall, assuming this helmet fits your head, the pluses far outweigh the minuses. At a price of $100, plus $20 for the Winter Kit, it is a good value and offers better than average performance.

Review: Adjustable kettlebells

Anyone in the fitness world can attest to the rise of the kettlebell craze in the past decade. If you believe the acolytes, these round chunks of iron with a handle can cure the common cold, fix the deficit, and stop global warming. Before kettlebells were reintroduced, after a century of ignominy in Western gyms, trainers supposedly had their clients working for twice as long and getting half the results.

In truth, for many exercises, kettlebells are no better than dumbbells -- those other old-fashioned chunks of iron that never lost their popularity. For most pushes, presses, and lifts, you are better off with the evenly distributed weight of dumbbells which place less stress on the wrists. Some of the kb fans argue that the off-balance mass of kettlebells provide greater resistance for a given weight. Perhaps, but you can always just heft a heavier dumbbell.

Although the hype doesn't live up to the reality, kettlebells can be a good addition to a home gym. Where they particularly excel are the swings and rotational lifts that integrate many muscles and planes of motion. Used properly in a thoughtful program, these exercises can offer excellent training benefit for outdoor athletes.

Unfortunately, as simple as they are, kettlebells are astonishingly expensive (worse if you add shipping). Deciding on a size is tough for beginners unless they have access to a kettlebell trainer. Since the basic concept of progressive overload still applies, you can't effectively train with just one or two sizes (at least for long). The cheapest kettlebells have small handles that are poor for two-handed exercises and some have rough grips that are hard on the hands when they twist. The nicer ones solve those issues but it can cost several hundred dollars to purchase a set, which also takes up a fair amount of floor space.

A good solution for the home user is a pair of Kettlestack Kettlebell handles ($60 each, delivered). These have large, smooth grips that are shaped properly for working out. They are relatively cheap because you supply the weights. If you don't happen to have some old weight plates lying around, they can be bought at any sporting good store for around 40? per pound. Adding it all up, for around $150 you get around a dozen different kettlebells and a great addition to your gym.

Adjusting the weight of a Kettlestack takes less than a minute just using a hex wrench. Once tightened down, the stack is solid without the slightest hint of rattle, even when dropped. Compared to a traditional kettlebell, a Kettlestack of the same weight is slightly larger and not quite as round but the feel is very similar. You can do all the same exercises as with the much more expensive cast iron versions. The only nit is the bottoms are not flat like on a kb so they don't sit on the floor quite as nicely

If you are putting a home gym together, I'd still recommend starting with quality selectorized dumbbells because they are the most versatile freeweights and take up little space. But Kettlestacks are the next best thing and a great complement for training. Of course, if space and money are no problem, then get a full set of nice kettlebells and have at it.
Purchase through Amazon.

Review: Terminator Tuning Package

Anyone with a quiver of skis should learn the basics of waxing and base tuning. Even if you can afford to take your skis in to a shop for tune-ups, the hassle of taking them in and going back later to pick them up means bases often go dry and edges remain rough. Tuned skis are happy skis!

However, many people don't have the space to setup a full workbench in their home. Thus a portable bench can be an great solution. The Terminator Tuning Stand from Tools4Boards.com provides a stable base for waxing and filing edges of any type of skis.

The model I've been using has their Cinch Ski Vise. This system has two end supports with wide, grippy platforms to support the inverted ski. To hold the ski in place, a cord is passed over the ski brakes and down to a cleat. When pulled tight, the brakes are retracted and the ski is secured to the platform. For skis without brakes (Nordic, telemark, and some AT bindings), the cord is passed through the binding. It's a simple system that works remarkably well. The Cinch platforms are also designed so that skis can be held sideways for serious edge filing.

When not in use, the legs on the Terminator quickly fold out of the way. When folded up, the stand is 54" x 7" x 4" so it can fit in a closet or many car trunks. Setting the stand up takes less than two minutes.

If you don't have tools already, the best deal is the package that includes the stand, vise system and tuning kit for $220 (including shipping). The only thing extra you'll need is a waxing iron and some wax. Overall, it's a well-designed system that will never wear out. After setting up the stand quite a few times, I did have to tighten the leg levers due to the paint wearing off (just needed a hex wrench and adjustable wrench).

Even though I have a nice workbench, more often than not, I find myself reaching for the Terminator (okay, dumb name) when it's time to tune skis. It's often faster to use than having to clear all the clutter off my workbench.